Late winter is a good time to groom your houseplants and treat them to a shower.
Carla Allen Photo
It’s spa time for houseplants
Indulging in luxurious treatments at a favorite spa is one of the nicest things you can do for yourself when winter slows to a crawl. With a manicure and pedicure, massage and deep cleansing, it’s possible to emerge feeling like a whole new person.
Why not provide somewhat similar services to the plants that populate your home? After all, they’re working non-stop to remove many types of toxins in your environment through daily photosynthesis and transpiration. Being firmly rooted in their growing medium they’re 100 per cent dependent on whatever kindnesses you can bestow.
First carefully inspect the foliage and snip off any broken branches, and discoloured or dead leaves. Prune and shape the plant lightly if necessary, cutting branches flush with the main stem. Light pruning encourages bushiness.
All plants can benefit from a thorough shower from a hand-held misting bottle. Run your hand gently between the branches and over the leaves to help wash off dust and dirt. If the plant is a large one, you might want to set the pot in a large garbage bag and draw it tight over the soil, then set it in your shower for a sprinkling.
Some plants may need rejuvenation by repotting. If the soil is drawing away from the side of the pot and roots can be seen circling the perimeter when you tap the root ball out then it’s time to transplant into a slightly larger pot.
Gently untangle the larger roots and snip half off. Slice through smaller, matted, circling roots. Put a few inches of fresh potting soil in the bottom of the new pot, install the root ball and tuck more soil around the edge. Water thoroughly.
Houseplants infected by root rot, often caused by over-watering, will languish and fail to thrive. It may be possible to save these plants by transplanting them into new soil and reducing the amount of water applied.
Ficus trees are prima donnas when it comes to handling stress. It’s not uncommon for them to shed their leaves when transplanted or moved to an area exposed to different light conditions. Just continue to sweep up dropped leaves, water and fertilize at half strength and the tree should start showing signs of recovery within a month or so.
For those gangly, bare-bottomed, tall plants that you’d like to do something about, there’s always the option of air-layering. Dieffenbachia, rubber plant, croton, and Dracaena are good subjects for this procedure.
To air-layer, the stem is lightly wounded (cut) about one foot beneath the upper foliage then packed round with damp sphagnum moss. A plastic bag is placed around this mass and fastened securely to create a greenhouse environment.
After four to six weeks, roots will have started to form. The stem can be severed beneath these and the plant can be replanted to create a more attractive specimen.