Pruning growth to one leader is an important cultural practice for many other shrubs, trees and vines.

Trained trees are much stronger than untrained and do not have ‘defects’ like weak or excessive branching. There’s no secret to selecting the one branch most appropriate for the job. Stand back and look at the trunk of the tree from the ground to the top. The trunk tapers into several branches that are most vertical. Choose the strongest and straightest as the leader and cut back or shape the others to form a permanent structural framework. Pruning deciduous trees is best done in fall or early spring when bare branches provide a better idea of what the shape will be.

Recently I planted two large cedars about four-feet apart. I’ll be wiring their leaders to a metal rod or pliable wood bent in a half circle. A few years and a little pruning should create an archway.

Training indeterminate tomato plants to one leader can help produce healthier plants. Indeterminate varieties are those similar to vines, that continuing growing through the summer. Pruning side branches and the suckers helps to keep fruits and foliage off the soil, and allows air to circulate around the plants, reducing the likelihood of foliage blights. To train a tomato, wrap string around the top third of the uppermost branch and secure overhead. Once the plant reaches the height you desire, pinch out the growing tip of the leader and the fruit below will begin ripening.

A reminder to all gardeners to water young shrubs and trees planted within the last year or two. These plants have not yet established a mature root system and are susceptible to the near-drought conditions we’ve been experiencing in the province this summer. I spent hours last Sunday watering my two-dozen Bridalwreath Spirea. It took a long time to soak each one repeatedly in order for the water to penetrate the powder-like soil.

Plants are coping with conditions that are much drier than people realize.